The most Texan touch comes from the servers, who are mainly young and Latino and who repeatedly fill his water glass, asking over and over and over if he needs more of.
We might as well be in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, what with the obligatory dark-wood-and-exposed-brick decor. We don’t have the kind of galleries you see in Fredericksburg.”Ĭrowley and I are having breakfast in the spare if stylish dining room of the Hotel Saint George, which Crowley opened in 2016. The historical standard set by Donald Judd”-the famous minimalist who in the seventies abandoned fame and fortune in Manhattan for the solitude of Marfa. But here’s the truth, according to Crowley: “What distinguishes Marfa is the quality. People have gone with the stereotypes,” he says somewhat wearily. “There’ve been a lot of bad articles that got it wrong. He hunches forward, as if he is imparting a secret. “I couldn’t do this in Houston,” Crowley says.
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Crowley turned an old feed store into the Crowley Theater, which hosts, free of charge, everything from local kids in cowboy costumes riding stick horses to the tune of “Texas, Our Texas” to live performances by John Waters or Sissy Spacek. “When I first moved here there was one hill you could get cell service on,” he tells me, a bit nostalgically.
Since arriving in the nineties he has been buying promising if decrepit buildings and turning them into showpieces. That the town, Marfa, happens to be the unlikeliest of global art capitals and hipster hangouts is due in large part to the persistence and generosity of, well, Tim Crowley.
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Overall, Crowley has the cultivated manner and authoritative ease of an eighteenth-century British lord, which suits someone who is a successful trial lawyer, a global entrepreneur, and the biggest man in a small West Texas town of around 1,700 people. He flashes extremely white teeth and emits a deep-occasionally mirthless-belly laugh. He brushes his silver hair carefully away from his high, unlined forehead, and he has a thin upper lip that can flatten into an expression of deep distaste when necessary. At 65, he is a tall, forceful, and fastidiously dressed man, even when he’s in jeans and a T-shirt. There is little about Tim Crowley that doesn’t provoke a strong reaction. Details of the changes are at the end of the story. This story has been edited, since we first published it last month, to correct and clarify issues of accuracy and context raised by several of the Marfans about whom we wrote.